Denim jacket after 7 years of planning
Designer Hironori Kawanami, who previously worked with the Japanese denim brand FULLCOUNT, shares the story behind the WASEW brand’s first denim setup, launched in 2022 after a seven-year journey. Each time he approached the denim, he found himself caught in the depths of his own perfectionism, unable to move forward. This struggle stemmed from his deep understanding of denim. Now, speaking not just as a designer but as a true denim enthusiast, Kawanami has talked about WASEW’s first-ever denim jacket, the ‘LOT0336 DENIM 1st JUMPER'.
Rethinking the Denim Jacket with a Vintage-Inspired Vision
【By: Hironori Kawanami】
When creating a denim jacket, there’s something I’ve felt for a long time. Even among vintage pieces, with so many diverse jackets from brands like Lee, Wrangler, and store brands, I’ve always wanted to create something that isn’t confined to the traditional “1st TYPE” or “2nd TYPE” designs, but rather, something born from a more free-spirited approach.
This desire grew even stronger when I decided to create denim inspired by the 1944 Lee 101. It pushed me to deeply ponder, “What exactly is a denim jacket?”
I don’t believe that every short jacket made from denim qualifies as a true denim jacket. So, I sought to define what truly makes a denim jacket. After much thought, I built a design that embodies the essence of a denim jacket by focusing on elements like silhouette and details, using vintage work jackets as the foundation.
The Japanese Indigo Blue
To find the perfect shade of indigo blue, I made countless trips to Ibara and Kojima in Okayama. It wasn’t just about finding the right fabric—it was about finding the right thread, dye, and weave. While the fading of denim develops over time with wear, its quality is determined by the thread, dye, and weave. There’s no need to explain further but Okayama is renowned for its indigo dyeing, a technique known worldwide. For WASEW's left twill denim, only real Japanese indigo blue was needed.
The warp yarns are spun using a blend of primarily Pima cotton and American cotton, recreating a natural long slub texture.
Typically, dyeing processes use high temperatures to achieve deep colors quickly. However, indigo dyeing is done at room temperature, so multiple dyeing cycles are needed to achieve a deep color. By repeating the process of exposing the dyed yarn to air to turn it indigo blue about ten times, WASEW achieves the desired shade of indigo blue.
Rich Texture Created by Vintage Looms
The denim fabric is woven in a 3/1 twill pattern, where the indigo-dyed warp threads are prominently displayed on the surface. When setting up the loom, the warp threads are kept as loose as possible and woven slowly with great care. This method requires a high level of craftsmanship, takes more time, and is less efficient, but it imparts a unique roughness and rich texture like vintage to the fabric.
In the finishing process, unnecessary steps are eliminated, and the woven fabric undergoes only a washing process for shrinkage prevention. This reduces the strain on the fabric, preserving the cotton’s natural softness and oils, resulting in an exceptionally soft feel and comfortable wear.
Additionally, the fabric is woven with a left-hand twill, which creates a clean twill line and adds a slightly refined touch. The deep indigo blue threads and the textured surface of the fabric combine to create WASEW’s original denim, offering a classic yet distinctive look.
Craftsmanship is in the details
The defining features of this denim jacket are the flaps tucked into the front yoke and the home plate-shaped pockets. By placing the yoke slightly lower and making the pockets a bit larger, we’ve infused a workwear feel while ensuring it still stands as a true denim jacket.
The front design is kept as simple as possible, without pleats, creating a clean look. The brass-colored donut buttons, the same as those on our 5-pocket jeans, add a touch of contrast, giving the jacket a simple yet powerful presence.
With a focus on simplicity while still staying true to the essence of a denim jacket, I decided not to include a T-back (the rear panel seam). The tucks at the back hem are also subtly finished with navy stitching. For the sleeves, I opted for a single-piece design, reinforcing the cuff openings with UFO rivets.
Although only two colors of thread are used, I’ve carefully adjusted the thread thickness and stitch density in different areas, creating a denim jacket with depth and dimension.
The Meaning of Making Denim
It’s not about creating something innovative or extraordinary—it’s about embodying a deep love for denim. After seven years of dedication, what I ultimately pursued was my own “passion for denim.” My goal is for fellow denim enthusiasts to wear the denim I’ve crafted with that same passion. That might just be the essence of WASEW denim.
