Why is Japanese denim in the spotlight now?
Okayama has everything needed for making denim
Okayama in Japan has two regions with rich textile traditions: the Ibara area, known for its indigo dyeing since the Edo period (1603-1868), and the Kojima area, which flourished in the Taisho (1912-1926) and Showa (1926-1989) eras with the production of student uniforms. Additionally, these regions were also involved in cotton cultivation.
After World War II, when jeans were introduced to Japan and the idea of producing domestic denim emerged, it was both a coincidence and an inevitability that attention turned to Okayama.
Okayama’s unique ideas that defy global trends
For Americans, jeans were workwear and everyday clothing, meant to be mass-produced cheaply.
In Japan, however, perhaps due to a strong work ethic, simply replicating the originals or improving their quality wasn’t enough. The pursuit of the roots of jeans led to a fascination with ‘vintage,’ a concept that values a return to origins—completely opposite to American thinking.
As a result, various techniques developed, such as distressing and indigo dyeing that creates rich fades, and Okayama became recognized globally as the place where the ideal denim could be made.
Okayama’s Denim Craftsmanship Rooted in Tradition
The production process of denim primarily involves spinning, dyeing, weaving, and sewing. Okayama, particularly the Ibara area, is renowned for its rope dyeing technique using indigo, a method that leverages traditional indigo dyeing skills and expertise.
The captivating aging process known as “fading,” which becomes more pronounced with wear, is made possible by a high-level dyeing technique developed in this region called “shinpaku.” This technique leaves only the core of the yarn white, resulting in a beautiful contrast over time.
Moreover, Okayama is home to weaving factories that still operate old shuttle looms used to create vintage denim, making it a region where everything necessary for denim production is available.
Rope Dyeing Techniques Sought After by Designers Worldwide
As mentioned earlier, the Ibara area has been a hub for indigo dyeing since the Edo period, with the “shinpaku” technique being particularly highly regarded. This technique, which determines the quality of fading in vintage denim, is sought after by designers across the globe.
Now, let’s take a look at the rope dyeing process.
Warping
To ensure smooth and even dyeing without any irregularities, individual threads are carefully stretched across the space, removing any debris or twists. Hundreds of threads are then bundled together and wound onto a cylinder while being inspected.
Dyeing
The threads wound during warping are bundled into a rope and dyed using the rope dyeing technique. By thoroughly dyeing only the outer part of the thread while leaving the core white, the beautiful fading characteristic of denim can be achieved.
Typically, dyeing processes use high temperatures to achieve deep colors quickly. However, indigo dyeing is done at room temperature, so multiple dyeing cycles are needed to achieve a deep color. By repeating the process of exposing the dyed yarn to air to turn it indigo blue about ten times, WASEW achieves the desired shade of indigo blue.
This meticulous effort results in the beautiful “Japanese Indigo Blue” of Okayama.
Selvedge Denim Woven on Vintage Looms
The vintage shuttle looms, known for producing fabric with “Selvedge” edges that prevent fraying, are a hallmark of Japanese denim. However, these looms are old, and those still in use today are maintained by salvaging parts from broken machines to keep them running.
One selvedge for four regular denims?
The fabric woven on vintage looms, known as “selvage denim,” is crafted using a highly skilled and time-consuming technique. The warp threads are set with as little tension as possible, and the fabric is carefully woven at a slow speed. Additionally, the fabric width that can be produced is about half that of a regular loom, and the number of rolls produced per day is also half, making it a very inefficient process.
In simple terms, this means that for every four pairs of regular denim jeans, only one pair of selvage jeans can be made. However, this painstaking process is what creates the unique fades that develop with wear, a key feature that is highly valued worldwide.
Kojima, the Town of Denim Sewing Experts
With a history of sewing school uniforms and military uniforms, Kojima is home to factories equipped with the skills and machinery needed for denim sewing. The factories here have the expertise to handle thick denim fabric, which is considered difficult to work with, and can meet the demands of detail-oriented designers, from the way stitches are applied to the finer aspects of sewing.
WASEW “THE DENIM” Series
“THE DENIM” is WASEW’s original denim, Made in Okayama, completed by designer Hironori Kawanami after seven years planning. Crafted through the meticulous process described in this article, these jeans are the result of a true denim enthusiast’s dedication to every detail, creating a pair of carefully crafted selvage denim.
