WASEW's "B.D. ONE OXFORD SHIRT" is made using WASEW's original Oxford fabric woven on an old-fashioned loom known as a Schonherr loom in Bishu (Ichinomiya City, Aichi Prefecture), an area long renowned for its wool production.
These Schonherr looms, some of which are nearly 100 years old, are becoming increasingly scarce as the manufacturer has gone out of business. Due to a lack of successors, it is uncertain how long it will be possible to continue weaving this fabric.
Here is a closer look at the reverse side of the "B.D. ONE OXFORD SHIRT," made from this precious fabric.
Schonherr loom - A Legacy of Craftsmanship
In the heart of Ichinomiya City, Aichi Prefecture, Japan, lies a testament to the enduring legacy of textile ingenuity: the Schonherr loom. These meticulously crafted machines, inspired by their German counterparts, have been weaving their magic since the early Showa era (1926-1989)
Fabric Woven at a Slow Pace of 15 Meters per Day
Operating at a fraction of the speed of modern looms, the Schonherr loom produces a mere 15 meters of fabric per day. This leisurely pace is a testament to the machine's dedication to craftsmanship, not inefficiency. Each meter of fabric is imbued with meticulous care and attention to detail, a hallmark of traditional weaving techniques.
The loom's preparation process further highlights its slow approach. Setting up the 3,000 to 8,000 warp threads, a task requiring the expertise of seasoned artisans, can take up to three to four days.
Imperfection in Perfection
In pursuit of a unique vintage texture for our shirts, we turned to the Schonherr loom, an old-fashioned machine that defies the norms of modern textile production. Unlike high-speed looms that prioritize efficiency, the Schonherr loom embraces a slower, more deliberate approach.
The key to achieving the desired "fluffy" texture lay in the loom's ability to gently weave the threads at a relaxed pace. This delicate process, impossible with modern machinery, allowed us to create a fabric that exudes a vintage charm, reminiscent of bygone eras.
A Treasure Trove in Aichi Prefecture
In Bishu, renowned for its wool production, a unique textile tradition takes center stage: weaving fabrics without starching the yarn. This time-honored practice, when applied to cotton yarn and woven on the low-speed Schonherr loom, yields an exceptionally soft and supple fabric, devoid of any stiffness.
The Schonherr loom's gentle weaving process, in harmony with the unstarched cotton yarn, allows the fibers to retain their natural elasticity and softness. This delicate interplay creates a fabric that breathes and drapes effortlessly, exuding an unparalleled comfort and elegance.
Japanese Expertise in Sewing: The Finishing Touch
Crafted with the utmost precision and attention to detail, WASEW shirts are meticulously stitched in dedicated shirt factories within Japan. This choice reflects our commitment to using fine-count threads and stitching with a higher stitch density (21 stitches per inch) compared to standard production garments.
A higher stitch density not only enhances the garment's elegance and refinement but also ensures that the delicate fine-count threads are handled with the utmost care. This meticulous approach is essential for achieving the impeccable quality and luxurious feel that WASEW shirts are renowned for.
Furthermore, the expertise of our dedicated shirt factories is crucial in delivering the signature WASEW collar, renowned for its impeccable construction and three-dimensional shape. This intricate technique requires a level of skill and precision that is only possible through years of experience and unwavering dedication to craftsmanship.
Behind Every Great Creation a Story Worth Telling
The "B.D. ONE OXFORD SHIRT" is a testament to our commitment to craftsmanship and heritage. Crafted from a rare and precious fabric, the origins of which are deeply rooted in textile history, this shirt embodies the essence of timeless style and enduring quality.
