Thermal shirts are popular during the cold season, but have you ever struggled with the fabric stretching and losing its shape over time? This is especially common after repeated wear and washing, causing the knit to expand and distort the silhouette. To address this issue, WASEW collaborated with skilled knitters from Wakayama, Japan to take on a new challenge. The 'GENKOTSU THERMAL' we're introducing today is the result of those efforts an innovative thermal shirt that resists losing its shape.
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The Biggest Drawback of Thermal Shirts
・The Cause: The Structure of Waffle Fabric
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Overcoming the Drawbacks
・A Project Launched with Veteran Knitters from Wakayama
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Waffle Fabric Knitted by a Vintage Machine
・The Low-Speed Rib Machine, Known as the "Genkotsu Machine"
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A Thermal Shirt That Resists Losing Its Shape
・The Fusion of Old technology and modern idea
1. The Biggest Drawback of Thermal Shirts
The Cause: The Structure of Waffle Fabric
The biggest drawback of thermal shirts is that they tend to "lose their shape.
The cause lies in the structure of the waffle fabric used in many thermal shirts. Waffle fabric is characterized by its textured, three-dimensional knit, which provides excellent insulation. However, because the fabric is highly elastic, repeated washing causes the knit to stretch and loosen. As a result, the shirt's silhouette becomes distorted, giving it a worn-out appearance (though some people likes this).
2. Overcoming the Drawbacks
A Project Launched with Veteran Knitters from Wakayama
To address the biggest challenge of thermal shirts, WASEW launched a project with skilled knitters from Wakayama, Japan where is well known it's loopwheel. By leveraging their knowledge and expertise, we repeatedly went through a process of trial and error to create a waffle fabric that resists losing its shape. The result was a fabric that not only feels soft but also retains its silhouette even after long-term wear.
3. Waffle Fabric Knitted by a Vintage Machine
The Low-Speed Rib Machine, Known as the "Genkotsu Machine”
The "GENKOTSU THERMAL," born from this process, is knitted using a vintage low-speed rib knitting machine called the "Genkotsu Machine." This machine, which is the same type used to knit ribbing for the cuffs and hems of sweatshirts and the necklines of T-shirts, produces the soft texture characteristic of thermal shirts.
However, simply using this machine isn’t enough to create a waffle fabric that resists losing its shape. To address this, the craftsmen customized the machine itself, meticulously adjusting factors like the knitting gauge, the speed at which the fabric is wound, and the tension. These adjustments ensure that while maintaining softness, the fabric is also designed to prevent distortion.
Additionally, the fabric is finished in a tubular form and carefully folded for packaging to prevent twisting during transport, with attention to detail from the pre-sewing stage.
4. A Thermal Shirt That Resists Losing Its Shape
The Fusion of Old technology and modern idea
WASEW's "GENKOTSU THERMAL" is a unique thermal shirt born from the fusion of old technology and moder idea.
By specially adjusting the "Genkotsu Machine," which was active during the same era as loopwheel knitting machines, we achieved both a soft texture and durability that resists losing shape. Additionally, the fabric is finished in a tubular form and carefully folded for packaging, ensuring that the fabric doesn’t twist during transport, with meticulous attention given from the pre-sewing stage.
This shirt combines the craftsmanship of Wakayama, blending traditional techniques with modern knowledge—something you won't find in ordinary vintage thermals. Try the "GENKOTSU THERMAL" for yourself, and enjoy its ability to maintain a beautiful silhouette even after long wear.
